A couple of months ago, I wrote a post listing 40 things I hope to do before I turn 40 next January. Some of the items are mundane (how to fold a shirt) while others are somewhat lofty (dive along the Great Barrier Reef) but I am happy to say that I managed to tick another item off of the list – #40: See the Northern Lights. Since adding them to my list, I have actually been lucky enough to see them on a few different occasions, first in Iceland and then in Norway. The most extraordinary display happened when I least expected it though, when I was all alone standing on the banks of a frozen river in Alta, Norway.
I was in Alta to experience winter in one of the northernmost cities in the world. Located well within the Arctic Circle, the small town of Alta is as far north of Oslo as Rome is south. It’s remote but not barren, instead I found a warm spirit and community that made me fall in love with this northern outpost almost immediately. It’s an outdoorsy kind of place, and my days were spent doing things like snowshoeing, riding on dog sleds and even taking specially designed fat-bikes out onto snowy mountain trails. My last evening in town was spent at the famous ice hotel, the Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel. Located about 15 kilometers outside of Alta, Sorrisniva sits on the banks of the mighty Alta River, still thoroughly frozen when I visited in early March. The hotel is situated in what I would call affectionately the middle of nowhere, but that’s the point. The igloo wants to offer guests a chance to disconnect and relax, both of which I was happy to do.
After dinner though I was curious about the Northern Lights. Since we were so far out of town, there wouldn’t be any light pollution and as I peered out the window I could see the stars high overhead, a very good sign. Optimal conditions for the Northern Lights are cloudless nights with little or no wind. Having hunted a couple of times for the Lights, I know how hard they can be to spot so I wasn’t expecting a lot as I took my camera and tripod out onto the middle of the frozen Alta River.
The world-famous Finnmarksløpet dog-sled race was scheduled to start the next day from the very spot on which I stood on the ice. Lanes were marked, and volunteers were up late seeing to last minute changes. I kept away from them though, and instead found a quiet spot on the icy river, with the mountains in front of me and the igloo hotel to my back. Almost immediately I started to see the thin, wispy lines of the aurora borealis over the peaks ahead. From past experience I knew that to the untrained eye these faint manifestations of the Lights at first look like clouds. It’s not until photos are taken that you realize those streaks are actually green and aren’t clouds at all, but instead the Northern Lights.
I was cautiously excited. It was a great start to the evening and there are many people who go on organized Northern Lights tours who never see a thing, not even a thin wispy line of the aurora. Then, seemingly out of nowhere, more swirls and lines started to take shape, at first over the mountains in front of me, then also over the buildings behind me as well. I couldn’t believe my luck, the swirls kept increasing in magnitude, dancing around the sky. I mostly saw greens, but also flashes of reds and pinks in the Lights, rare colors to observe. Over the next hour or so, as I slowly froze, the Lights continued their show, giving me a private audience to one of the most amazing natural spectacles in the world. At one point the lights swirled all around me, creating a dome of arcing Lights in a display unlike anything else I have ever seen. I stopped trying to take photos and laid back on the ice, letting nature wow me with the performance. The solitude and the beauty were amazing and the ensuing experience is one I know I will remember forever. No other sounds, just my breathing in the cold night air as the sky erupted in a dancing, swirling mass of light. It was simply extraordinary and I immediately understood why Alta is known as the Northern Lights capital of the world.
While no one can ever guarantee seeing the Northern Lights, if this spectacle is on your bucket list like it was mine, do yourself a favor and plan a visit to the small northern city of Alta. Even if you don’t see the Lights, you’ll have a great time exploring the city and the pristine natural landscapes that surround it. But my fingers are crossed that you’ll get to experience the Northern Lights in their full glory just like I was lucky enough to see.
Have you seen the Northern Lights? Where were you?
10 thoughts on “My Private Northern Lights Experience in Norway”
Ohh,I love the idea of seeing the Northern Lights in such a personal way! Your description of hearing no sound, just your breath really brought to life what a special moment this must have been. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you and yes, it was definitely special.
I went to Iceland a few yeas ago, but failed to see the lights the brief time I was there.
Those are beautiful photographs! What were the exposure settings on your camera? I want to be prepared for my next opportunity to see them.
Wow!! Amazing pictures Matt! Even though I’ve never seen the Northern Lights before, it is definitely on my Bucket List. I always imagine myself staring at it for hours listening to some music on my ipod. Champagne Supernova by Oasis is definitely there!
This looks so beautiful. I would love to see the northern lights.
they are definitely very special
Hey Matt. Nice to hear of your experience in Alta. I’m planning to visit Alta around Christmas,and I’m a little clueless about what to do there. I’m a solo traveler. Should I try to stay in the city, or outside in order to be able to see the lights? I’m trying not to book through some tour company in order to reduce costs. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.
Hopefully my other Norway posts will help : https://landlopers.com/destinations/norway But stay in Alta, then use the tour companies. It’s the best way to go :)
Discovered your blog today and have been reading the whole night :) Really love it!
Living in Estonia I have grown up with occasional northern lights (or “virmalised”as we call it) in winters so it is really great to read such posts and see others’ perspective – reminds not to take miracles for given and appreciate it more the next time I have the luck of spotting the northern lights.
Oh thank you so much and yes, it’s a great lesson for all of us!
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