Last week, as I hope you know, I traversed the South-West region of France to see and explore areas completely new to me. I have been to Paris many times, I speak French, I love French culture and yet I had never gone further outside of Paris than Versailles. Yeah, I don’t know why either. The trip was, as expected, remarkable and I learned a lot about the country and I think even myself, the hallmark of any great travel experience.
Language
I was at first anxious. I used to be fluent in French, but that was more than fifteen years ago and I have lost a lot of my language skills, especially the vocabulary. I knew that I would meet people and be in small towns where English wasn’t an option and I just didn’t know to expect. The reality is twofold. First, just about everyone I met at least knew a small amount of English. Many of the towns are used to tourists and over time the residents have picked up key words and phrases. Also, as always, the universal sign language of pointing and nodding always does the trick. But, on a personal level, my French returned – well mostly. Once I had to try on my own, without the help of a tourism official or guide, I got used to speaking French once again and by the end of the week had recaptured a lot of my language skills. Was I perfect? Far from it and my accent is horrible, but I had conversations, got around town, ordered meals all on my own and all in French. I’m pretty proud of myself, I must say. But even if I didn’t have these skills, the areas I went to are all so very easy to navigate and the people so genuinely friendly that it wouldn’t have been a problem had I not spoken a word of French.
Food
I also discovered that many of the things I love most about Paris are present in other parts of France. (don’t tell them that) While there are certainly regional specialties, the food everywhere was excellent. Some meals may have been better than others, but none were bad. What I love most about French cuisine is its reliance on fresh food well prepared in traditional ways. There’s nothing better than a coffee and pain au chocolat in the morning, or some ham and butter on a baguette for lunch. Dinner in France is always multi-course, always relaxed and always enjoyable. Wine flowed like water and it’s true, it is cheaper than soda and better for you too. My one point of confusion is how the French all stay so skinny. The food is rich and ample and yet there they are, always well dressed and looking fit and trim. For my sake I think a week of fasting may be in order.
Aesthetics
The French countryside was as I imagined, but also different. Driving through Cognac was one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had. Even though it was raining, the rolling hills completely covered with vineyards and houses and chateaux in the distance all looked exactly what France should look like. It was postcard perfect. The towns and villages though surprised me a bit. I honestly thought before embarking on the escape that it would just be a parade of churches and old houses, but it was so much more. Each town has its own very unique personality and residents own a fierce sense of pride about their communities. And each community is different and known for something unique. In La Rochelle their location on the water and cultivation of salt and seafaring ways was well evidenced. In Cognac of course, the strong liquor rules dominion. But even in Angouleme, while ancient with an impressive history, their greatest sources of pride revolved around their artistic ventures. Cinema and cartoons fuel that city’s psyche.
Most importantly, what surprised me the most was just how very much I liked it. I mean, it’s France so I pretty much assumed it would be a nice trip, but I didn’t just enjoy my time, I relished in it. For an American, traveling through French villages and the countryside is alien and new. The United States has more than 70 cities with 500,000 people or more; France has fewer than 15. In the United States you can drive from Maine to LA and never leave the boring, bland soulless interstate. The same is definitely not possible in France. In France you are forced to see new things and learn about areas heretofore completely unknown. Driving by an 11th century castle is normal and laughing with a new friend over a glass of wine at a café is how evenings are spent. Rather than exist in a bubble of work-home-repeat, traveling through France was a true cultural immersion and it must be the same for everyone who visits, whether they like it or not.
In particular, the regions I visited: Pictou-Charentes, Midi-Pyernees and Provence, are well worth the time to explore for a week, two weeks or even longer. I know many people back home who have spent time in Paris, Normandy, Loire, and they’re all great. But never once have I heard about people spending time in La Rochelle or Albi and that needs to change. These areas are just as beautiful, just as rich in history and culture as any other and they need to be a stop on everyone’s European itineraries.
Much, much more to come of course over the next few weeks and months, but these are just some of my first impressions while traveling through France.
Have you been to any of these areas in France? What did you think?
As an expat currently living in France, I have traveled my fair bit outside the cities (and I don’t even live in Paris). I’ve LOVED the west coast with La Rochelle/Ile de Ré and Bordeaux, and I also love the Rhône-Alpes region with all the lakes, the food and the mountains. I am located in Auvergne, one of the lesser known regions of France and I like it like that – it makes my expat experience and travels just that much more unique, because no North Americans ever venture here.
So glad to hear that you had a magnificent time! I took was surprised at how much I enjoyed myself there when I visited last November.
Myself I didn’t go to smaller places which you mention such as Angouleme or Cognac but I your article definitely made me curious about these cities. If you are looking for more charming and not so crowded places I may recommend you to check Strasbourg or even Annecy next to Geneva.
We stayed in Bordeaux and Nice aswell as Paris, and passed through a number of small towns. I especially loved Arles and Carcassone. I don’t speak french apart from the basics but found it wasn’t much of a problem. Even though in the small towns they dont speak a lot of English, pointing works well and you can always read the menu. I found the country side very pretty, thought I couldn’t work out why it was different to me, then I realised, no sheep or cows!!
Love the southwestern part of France! A large part of the charm is the small villages. I’m looking forward to reading more about your adventure.
I must say I loved France outside of Paris (Aix en Provence, Puyricard, Marseilles) but I couldn’t relate to the Parisian mindset. It’s amazing how different the French are in their mannerisms and kindness outside of Paris. I guess it’s like comparing country folk or folks from smaller cities to those in large metropolitan areas in other countries as well. (i.e. usually country folk are more relaxed, helpful and friendly.) Although … I must say in all of my worldly travels … I’ve never encountered people as unfriendly and unhelpful as the Parisians.
I spent two summers in France with my family as a kid – Provence and the Dordogne – and loved it even then. I haven’t been back in 10 years, sadly, and my French is seriously rusty, but I’m looking forward to the day I return with an adult perspective!
We wre about 2 weeks away from a visit to France. Starting with a stay in Cannes and day trips to Nice, Monaco (by rail I think). Will have about 6 days to explore on our way to Paris. Car or train? Area? Will be in Alsace area after Paris. Looking forward to using my French – rusty as well and hoping it comes back as your did!
Nous sommes une entreprise située à Lille, et nous te conseillons de visiter cette ville :)
C’est une grande ville sans les inconvénients de Paris, c’est très culturel et beau, et surtout : plus accueillant que Paris ;)
Très bon blog que je découvre aujourd’hui !
Manon de Libertrip
– If youre french was not so perfect ^^ : We are a company located in Lille, and we advise you to visit this city :) This is a big city without the drawbacks of Paris, very cultural and beautiful, and above all: more welcoming than Paris;) Very good blog I discovered today!
Manon (Libertrip)
Glad you got out of Paris and discovered the real France. :-)
We really enjoyed our visit to France a few years ago. When we travel we try to mix up between capital cities, rural towns and countryside areas as I feel it provides a good balance when you are on holiday.
In France, we visited Paris, Brittany, the Loire Valley, Chamonix, Lyon (briefly), Provence and the Cote d’Zur. As it was our first visit we stayed mostly on the tourist ‘beaten track’, but we also enjoyed getting off the track as well. I recall visiting the French ‘Colorado’ and Gorge du Verdon as a real highlight. After swarms of tourists in the hilltop villages of the area around Avignon, we finally got to a place where we were early enough that we were the only people there. Nice! And driving through the Gorge du Verdon was spectacular (although there were a few more people it was not over crowded).
I hope you enjoy your visit to France and I definitely want to visit again sometime.